Yeah, chords are very powerful for fixing a lot of issues. Especially for mixed input since some weird things can occur. My favorite fix is for Red Dead Redemption 2 where left stick click when mouse input is detected caused the game to enter Dead Eye. So I solved it by setting up a chord so that when I am touching the right touchpad ‘L3’ becomes ‘Ctrl’, which let me enter crouch without dead eye being activated.

https://lemmy.world/post/3533396

Can’t wrap my mind around the difference between modeshifting and action layers, though. The former seems much easier to use, but somehow doesn’t work that consistently for me, so yeah, I end up doing what you’re showing.

Action Layer

So action layers is like a copy of your default controller config that you can switch to and have the changes you want made to it. Example of how I use this in the Finals is when I play light I have it set up so left touchpad click is dash/grapple compared to the default config I use for medium and heavy where left touchpad click is crouch as opposed a specialization. I switch between my light and medium/heavy controller set by holding down the select button. Action Layer is similar and I’ll use it for temporarily switching between configs. Example is if I hold down the left bumper going to an action layer where my right trackpad is outputting a right joystick to make selecting from the conversation wheel easier and when let go reverts back to the default where right trackpad is a mouse.

Modeshift

Modeshifts are similar but more reliable when it comes to in game actions. So use cases of modeshifts might be having the trackpad when clicked modeshift into a dpad, and it’ll revert back to a regular trackpad afterwards. Or when the left trigger is fully pulled it modeshifts into a different gyro sensitivity that is lower than what the gyro is normally, which comes in useful if a game doesn’t offer aim sensitivity adjustments for ADS.

Chords

Chords are similar to modeshifts and I use them to add on additional functions on top of the modeshift. Like if I have the trackpad modeshift into a dpad on a click with the inputs 1,2,3,4 mapped to it. Then I might set up a chord, so that when the left grip is held and the trackpad is clicked the inputs are 5,6,7,8. Or in some games like the Finals sprinting can take you out of ADS and I bind the sprint button on the outer edge. So I’ll set a chord so that when I am holding down the left trigger to aim the outer edge become an empty bind so I don’t take myself out of aiming by accident. If you find yourself accidentally triggering things on the dpad modeshift you can set up a chord that returns an empty bind to help. Like in the Finals I found myself sometimes accidentally reloading (left click) or meleeing (center click) on the touchpad when I was firing a gun and interrupting it during tense moments, so I set up a chord so that when I am holding down the right trigger the left click which normally outputs reload and center click which is melee turns into an empty bind that outputs nothing.

Were you yourself ever able to adjust to this kind of scheme on Steam Deck?

As for the Steam Deck and fps. I find myself playing more hack and slash and platformers on the Deck, since I haven’t found the touchpads ergonomic for my hands. I’ve found the touchpad experience feels like a downgrade compared to the Steam Controller touchpads, since the location is better on the Steam Controller. I also found the concave circular shape of the steam controller touchpads to be more consistent when it comes to swiping the camera to turn 180 as shown in this demo. With Deck I found I was only able to replicate it adjusting the rotation until it went from corner to corner, but did not find it comfortable. So I stick to joysticks on the Steam Deck.

Some games doing a poor job at mixed input doesn’t help either: things like prompts rapidly switching between that of MKB and controller, or the game not allowing you to switch on the fly, etc.

Yeah that has been an annoyance for a long time. And even worse when there is no mixed input support. When that happens if the game allows sprint and walk to be set to a hold as opposed to a toggle I will use soft presses to set up a pseudo analog experience.

I uploaded the config for the Steam Controller with the name “Dualpad with Gyro Updated…”

Problem is that if you try to use the config on the Steam Deck I don’t think it’ll work the same way, since on the Steam Deck trackpad click is set up through soft press as opposed to the physical click that the Steam Controller uses.

I did play around with trying to set up something similar in the past on the Deck touchpads and did it through action layers instead of mode shift. Set it up so that clicking the touchpad switched to the action layer where the touchpad was set up as a dpad that I had stuff mapped too, and release press removed the same action layer to return back to the default action set.

https://imgur.com/a/steam-deck-dpad-modeshift-workaround-using-action-layers-b1wyHEK

But, when I did this workaround modeshifts weren’t available in the current UI yet, so maybe a normal dpad modeshift setup would work on the Deck pads now. This was how I set it up in the old Steam Input UI https://youtu.be/4vN1Jj7EPZk. If not then action layer approach is the other method.

Update: so I decided to try it on the Steam Deck and I was able to set up a dpad modeshift on a pad click and even get the chord function to work so the inputs change if I hold one of the left back buttons. Only issue is I couldn’t find a way to adjust the pressure required to register a click for the touchpad when it came to the modeshift pad click.

Unless you need the touchpad and resistance triggers I’ve come to prefer the Ultimate 2 wireless over the dualsense.

Has TMR sticks, extra bumper buttons, back buttons, and charging dock. Got firmware update to allow the extra buttons to be remappable through Steam Input too.

Don’t see myself considering a PlayStation controller on the PC unless future versions start coming with hall effect or TMR sticks, and even then with them charging double the price for paddle buttons it is a hard sell over third party controller options on the PC.

Right now has to be the 8bitdo Ultimate 2 wireless. Not the bluetooth switch one. Need to update the dongle and controller to the latest beta firmware and launch it in dinput mode by turning it on while holding the B button. Then all the extra buttons can be mapped along with using gyro with analog triggers, which couldn’t be done before.

There is a bug that needs to be fixed where rumble can cause the controller to stop working in game, so for now need to use it with rumble off until that is fixed. But, everything else works when it comes to binding through Steam Input.

Prey was great in that department actually having a config that mapped mouse to the right touchpad instead of emulating a joystick like so many games did, and then had different action sets that automatically switched depending on if it was gameplay or you were in the menu. And showed proper icons like the touchpad click to reflect Steam Input mappings people set it to.

How did you use the touchpad. My approach has been to adjust the sensitivity of the touchpad until an edge to edge swipe does a 180, and for gyro having a 90 degree rotation of the controller do 675 degree rotation in game for first person and 450 degrees for third person. Made it a consistent aim experience no matter what game I played as long as the mouse input in the game was good and didn’t do things like emulate a joystick causing negative acceleration.

And for the right touchpad I set a dpad modeshift with an inverted outer ring bind so clicking up, down, left, right, center output different inputs so I didn’t have to reach down to the facebuttons as often. And depending on the game I’d set up a chord so holding the left grip and clicking would output a different set of 5 inputs.

And I just saved the template so I didn’t need to set it up all the time.

Liked it for Doom Eternal, since I could activate gyro, swipe the camera to quickly turn, and click to swap between weapons every shot to bypass reloading all on the right touchpad.

And pvp games like The Finals clicking the right pad to switch through gadgets and using the touchpad to quickly turn and activate gyro, and not feeling like my inputs were too slow versus mouse users. And not having to bother with aim assist.

I’m still using the same AA eneloops I used since I picked up my Steam Controller all the way back in 2015-2016. And I also used it with my 360 controller too. Just keeps chugging along being good for a month before I need to swap.

Yeah the PS4 battery life has been crap and I don’t know why. Was finally able to replace Sony controllers with 8bitdo now that Steam provides support for the extra buttons to be mapped to unique keys and use analog triggers and gyro together. So been nice not having to spend money on the dualsense, which doesn’t even have hall effects/TMR sticks.

Trying to find replacement batteries for integrated batteries is a pain too, since might not be able to find an OEM replacement or battery from a reputable brand. So you end up having to go with whatever random no name battery that could be worse than the OEM battery and end up dying after less than a year.

My preference is rechargeable AA or AAA. And even better if the controller itself can recharge the battery like drone controllers.