NYT Cooking is pretty good but my GOAT is Felicity Cloake’s ‘how to make the perfect…’ column in the Gruniad. She is always my first port of call when I fancy trying something new.

She takes recipes from an assortment of cookbooks, tries them all, discusses what worked well and what didn’t (and why) for her and her test eaters before finishing with a recipe based on the outcome of those test cooks.

One of the rare cases where you want to read the whole post and not just ‘jump to recipe’. Because she describes the variations that different cookbooks recommend, it’s very easy to adapt her own ‘perfect’ recipe to your own tastes.

Here, as an example, is her chicken souvlaki.