So you have a single mobile device connecting via wg, correct? Not a second network?

If so the only configuration you should need on the router are firewall rules to allow forwarding from wg to lan. I am guessing that’s what the second step in the GL-iNet help accomplishes. That’s what I would recommend trying.

If I was doing this on “normal” OpenWRT I would create a firewall zone wg, and allow traffic to/from it and lan.

On the client device you should be good to go without changes if AllowedIPs is set to 0.0.0.0/, ::/0 (sending all traffic through wg).

That rule is supposed to be set on the “server” at the other end of the wg connection, using its own wg address as gateway. Not on the router for the lan you’re trying to access. That seems like a pretty easy mistake to make given that documentation.

You could try a short reset of just the network configuration. Hold reset for like 5 seconds. Might need to do a full reset (10+ seconds) if that doesn’t get you back in.

Great choice. In a similar vein - Rififi.

Knitting is great for everyone. You can make clothing and accessories for you and for gifting. Knit and then felt wool bowls and other household articles. It’s inexpensive to get started with basic yarn to see if you like the activity.

I use Dumbass in a similar vein. But maybe something like Bro would be more neutral.

Cool, thanks. I’ll take a look.

I have heard that. Can it be given run conditions, like only on wifi, and respecting the Android battery saving setting?

My phone has an always on split tunnel VPN to home, so the other sync devices are always accessible. Without the Syncthing-Fork run conditions it chews through mobile data and battery.

Same here. It was already a little bit concerning that I was relying on a smaller fork to get syncthing on Android. It was on my to do list to figure out options. Now it’s at the top of the list, and I’m not doing updates for the time being on Android. That’s almost the entirety of my reliance on syncthing - phone to PC sync. I don’t really need it that much for sync between PCs.

Makes sense. The one on the left is probably particularly crap. Higher salt content, more skim milk % than better quality part-skim cheeses.

Like you said, you can get a lot of info from the feel. I think those cheaper cheeses really over salt early, and work the curds harder to expell as much whey as possible to get the cheapest product and longest shelf life. And they feel rock hard.

There is a store near me with a house brand LMPS mozz that has the opposite problem. It feels soft, but it doesn’t have the right pulled texture of real mozz. So it melts, but kinda in a puddle, and it breaks well before it browns.

The one on the right doesn’t say low moisture, but I think based on the nutritional information it would still be that. It’s the same calories/gram, fat, protein and salt as the 2 brands I use, and they are both marked low moisture. Maybe Walmart figures they’ve given low moisture cheese a bad reputation so they don’t want to call it out on the whole milk cheese package.

Interesting. I read a paper one time on the salting step, stretching/pulling the curd, and the proportions of skim milk content (in part skim cheese), as well as handling after production having some impacts on this. It’s why I hunt out my one favorite cheese that always behaves like I expect.

Great looking pie!

Another good recipe with ingredients in volumetric and gram measurements is here: https://www.seriouseats.com/foolproof-pan-pizza-recipe

His quantities are for 2x 10-inch skillets. A 12-inch skillet is roughly 44% larger area, so I scale it up 1.44x for two 12-inch pizzas. Or more often half that, 0.72x for a single pizza. This is where grams on a scale make things easier and more reliable.

I particularly like how much detail Kenji goes into on the procedure and the impact of different changes to the approach. It can help with troubleshooting problems, or just with tweaking to make a good pizza even better next time.

If it’s pre-shredded, the anti-caking additive may be the problem. It’s typically coated in moisture absorbing cellulose. When it melts that causes the problem you describe. Using higher moisture can overcome that somewhat, but shredding your own will come out better and it only takes a couple of minutes.

In my area low moisture chunk mozz is as cheap or cheaper than pre-shreds (~$3.75 per lb) and it won’t do this.

Galbani “Italian style” whole milk “classic melt & stretch” is my favorite for pizza. Nicer flavor and texture than the cheaper options. It’s $5 per lb but regularly goes on sale for less.

Are you specifying bandwidth (-b) on the iperf UDP test? It defaults to 1M if I recall correctly, which would explain the result.

If not, try -b 10M or -b 0 for unlimited (the behavior used for TCP).

Maybe the linked article changed since it was posted? That’s the story I read yesterday, but the article I see posted says:

It was handed over on Wednesday to the Argentinian judiciary by the daughter of the late Nazi financier Friedrich Kadgien, Patricia Kadgien, who has been under house arrest with her husband since Tuesday.

Just tried this on a recent Trixie amd64 install. locate isn’t installed by default, but there is a locate/stable 4.10.0-3 package and it installs just fine for me.

sudo apt update
sudo apt install locate

What number am I thinking of?

I’m using Mikrotik and Ruckus. Would recommend both. I like that they are both at the level of reliability that I don’t think about them at all for months at a time. I update quarterly or less and they require no other attention from me. They also work well with my centralized data collection and alerting via LibreNMS.

OPNSense would be high on my list of alternatives when I reevaluate next time. And all Mikrotik would be a good option for me as well. Their Wi-Fi gear is not as strong as Ruckus or Ubiquiti, but they are super solid.

The Unifi ecosystem is a bit too centralized for me. I don’t want to create an account in order to use the hardware.

Matewan (1987) is a good movie covering aspects of this story. Great cast and an engaging story. The cinematography won an Oscar.

I’ve used a pretty cheap on (Duxtop or something like that) with a 6-8" heating coil. It worked fine on a well-conducting pan - 12" triple layer stainless-aluminum-stainless (like All-Clad, but a cheap version for restaurant use). It also did great with a 10" carbon steel pan. But I wasn’t doing anything that required maximum heat across the width of the pan. I think that’s a shortcoming for sure.

There are also reports of poor performance with larger cast iron pans, which makes sense - they’re not great heat conductors. So I think in part at least it depends on your cookware and what you’re cooking. Boil/simmer/fry in a larger highly conductive pan will likely be fine. Sear in a larger less-conductive pan maybe not so much.